Molly Mae Dermaplaning: Debunking Facial Hair Removal Myths and Regrets

Thinking about dermaplaning and wondering if it's right for you? Let us jump into the conversation about facial hair removal.

Back in 2022, Molly-Mae’s comments about her “dermaplaning regrets” set the internet abuzz. The popular UK-based influencer claimed this facial hair removal trend left her with a “full beard” and feeling trapped in an endless shaving cycle.

Image: Glamour Magazine / Source Grazia 

It’s understandable that such headlines might scare anyone considering dermaplaning. But before you swear off this natural skincare treatment, let’s unpack the myths from the facts.

In reality, dermaplaning – when done correctly – is a safe, natural way to get glowing, fuzz-free skin without the horror stories.

Dermaplaning is a treatment that can be done at home or at a professional salon. A single blade dermaplaning tool is used to remove the top layer of skin. It's usually quick, relatively painless, and involves little to no recovery time*.

Molly-Mae’s Dermaplaning Regret: What Happened?

Molly-Mae Hague (of Love Island fame) shared that dermaplaning was one of her “biggest beauty regrets”. In a YouTube video, she lamented that after a series of dermaplaning facials, her peach fuzz began growing back “at rapid levels” – she even joked, “I basically have a full beard now”.

Molly claimed, “once you start shaving, the hair grows back thicker, and then you have to do it all the time”, advising fans to “think about it before you start.” 

It’s a striking story that quickly made headlines and left many wondering: will dermaplaning really make your facial hair grow back thicker or darker? Is regret inevitable once you shave your face?

Debunking the Myths: Does Dermaplaning Make Hair Thicker?

Let’s address the biggest misconception head-on: the fear that dermaplaning causes hair to grow back thicker, darker, or more abundantly (cue the “female beard” worry). 

Dermatologists and skin experts have long debunked this myth. Facial shaving or dermaplaning does not change the structure, colour, or growth rate of hair.

The Mayo Clinic explains that while hair might feel a bit coarse or stubbly as it starts to grow back (because it’s been cut bluntly), it isn’t actually any thicker or darker than before.

In fact, WebMD flatly states “it’s a myth that your hair will grow back thicker or darker after dermaplaning.” While regrown hair may feel a little coarser at first, it soon returns to its usual softness.

So why did Molly-Mae feel like she suddenly had a “full beard”?

The answer lies in how hair regrows. When you remove the soft vellus hairs (peach fuzz) from your face, the hair grows back naturally with a blunt tip. This can make the regrowth more noticeable to the touch, but rest assured, the hair itself is unchanged.

As one skincare expert explains*, dermaplaning simply shaves hair at the surface without affecting the follicle, so once the hair grows back in, it “will look and feel exactly the same as before”.

It's also important to note that the fine facial hair that dermaplaning targets is biologically different from coarse beard hair. Peach fuzz (technically called vellus hair) is naturally thin, light, and soft. 

It’s “100% physiologically impossible” for dermaplaning to turn vellus hair into thick, dark terminal hairs. Only hormonal changes (such as conditions like PCOS) could cause those peach-fuzz hairs to become coarser—not a dermaplaning razor or exfoliation treatment. 

Professional dermaplaning providers back this up too: one practitioner with six years’ experience said out of hundreds of clients, not a single one saw their hair grow back worse after dermaplaning. 

It’s true that with any hair removal method, the hair will eventually grow back (because that’s what hair does!).

Staying completely fuzz-free does require periodic upkeep – but this isn’t a “trap,” just normal maintenance. If you enjoy the smooth look, you might dermaplane about once a month to maintain the results.

If you decide to stop, your facial hair will simply return to its pre-dermaplaning state on its normal growth cycle. There’s no evidence that you’ll be worse off than before.

So, let’s put the “dermaplaning makes it grow back thicker” fear to rest and look at why so many people love this treatment.

Glow-Boosting Benefits of Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning isn’t just about hair removal – it doubles as an exfoliating skin treatment that can leave your complexion radiant. By gently scraping away the layer of dead skin cells along with those fine hairs, dermaplaning immediately reveals smoother, brighter skin underneath.

Removing this built-up debris allows skincare products to penetrate better, resulting in that coveted hydrated glow and even a “glass skin” effect. (Think Lindsay Lohan Glow). 

Essentially, you’re polishing the surface of your face, which can soften the look of fine lines and pigmentation spots over time.

Additional skin benefits of dermaplaning include:

• Instant Radiance: Sloughing off dull, dead cells gives an instant boost to skin tone and luminosity. Many people notice a brighter, more youthful glow right after treatment.
  

• Peach Fuzz Be Gone: Removing the fine vellus hairs, especially around the chin, cheeks, and jawline, leaves your face incredibly smooth to the touch. Say goodbye to the “fuzzy” look – your skin will reflect light better and feel baby-soft.
  

• Better Product Absorption: With the barrier of dead skin gone, your serums and moisturisers can sink in deeper, making them more effective. You’ll get more out of that fancy face oil or night cream when you apply it to freshly dermaplaned skin.
  

• Flawless Makeup Application: Who doesn't love that flawless skin glow? Makeup artists often recommend gentle facial shaving for a reason – foundation and concealer glide on more evenly when there are no tiny hairs or dry patches for them to cling to. Dermaplaning creates an ultra-smooth canvas, so your makeup can look airbrushed.
  

• Mild, No-Downtime Exfoliation: Unlike harsher peels or abrasive scrubs, dermaplaning is a non-irritating way to exfoliate. For most, there’s zero downtime – you can go about your day with maybe just a touch of post-facial pinkness. Most people have little to no irritation after a dermaplaning session (perhaps a bit of temporary redness or tingling at most).
  
  

When performed correctly, dermaplaning is very safe for the vast majority of skin types. It doesn’t involve chemicals, intense heat, or anything that penetrates deep into the skin – it’s literally a gentle shaving of the surface.

The immediate payoff (a glow-y, smooth face) and the minimal risk when done right are exactly why dermaplaning has become such a popular glow-up technique, loved by celebrities including Chrishell Stause, Eva Mendes and Goop’s Gwyneth Paltrow.

How to Dermaplane the Right Way (and Avoid Regrets)

The benefits of dermaplaning will resonate with many, but how do you ensure you get those benefits without any regrets of your own?

The most important key to dermaplaning at home is proper technique and aftercare. Improper dermaplaning (or using the wrong tools) can lead to less-than-stellar results–think breakouts, scratches or irritation–but the good news is that those are totally avoidable with a few precautions.

There is one simple rule: if you do it right, you shouldn’t run into problems.

Dermaplaning needs to be done correctly for maximal benefit. In short: be gentle, be clean, and you’ll be fine.

Here are some tips for safe, effective at-home dermaplaning: 

• Start with a clean canvas: Always cleanse your face thoroughly with a gentle cleanser and pat it completely dry before dermaplaning. Working on a clean surface helps prevent post-shave breakouts (you don’t want to push dirt or bacteria into the skin).

• Consider adding a facial oil: While some people prefer to work with the blade on dry skin, others add a thin layer of facial oil to help the blade glide smoothly – a method called “oilplaning” – especially if you have very dry or sensitive skin. 
  

• Use a quality dermaplaning tool: Use a sterile, single-use dermaplaning blade or a tool specifically designed for facial shaving – not a random old razor. A sharp, clean blade is crucial to effectively exfoliate without needing to press hard. (Tip: A kit like Make My Shave’s Dermaplaning and Oil Duo pairs a precision facial razor with a skin nourishing Dermaplaning Facial Oil, so you have the right tools on hand for a gentle at-home dermaplaning treatment.)
  

• Take light, gentle strokes: Hold your skin taut with one hand and hold the blade at a 45° angle with the other. Use short, feather-light strokes in a downward direction. There’s no need to apply heavy pressure – let the blade do the work. Using a gentle technique will avoid any nicks or over-exfoliation of your skin.
  

• Avoid active breakouts: Never dermaplane over pimples, active acne, open cuts, or any raised skin irritation. Shaving over these can spread bacteria and cause further inflammation or infection. It’s best to wait until any breakout has healed before you resume dermaplaning (trying to shave over a blemish is a recipe for irritation).
  

• Soothe and protect after shave care: After you've completed your at-home dermaplaning treatment, splash your face with cool water to remove any loosened debris, then apply a hydrating serum or the provided oil to calm the skin. Your skin will absorb products more easily now, so this is a great time to moisturise. And don’t forget sunscreen – freshly exfoliated skin can be a bit more sensitive to the sun, so protect that new glow with at least SPF 30 before you head out.
  

• Don’t overdo it: Give your skin time to regenerate between sessions. Everyone's skin is different, so only dermaplane when you feel the time is right. It could be anywhere from 2-6 weeks. Doing it too often won’t give you extra smoothness – it may actually irritate your skin. Remember: peach fuzz grows back at a normal pace, so weekly shaves aren’t necessary. Patience will keep your skin happy.
  
  

By following these simple guidelines, you can enjoy all the perks of dermaplaning at-home without any unwelcome side effects. 

Final Thoughts:

Dermaplaning is a safe and effective way to remove facial hair and rejuvenate the skin, despite what scary stories the media might suggest. Don’t let fear-mongering headlines convince you that you’ll grow a beard or ruin your skin – science and expert experience say otherwise.

When done properly, dermaplaning can leave you with smoother, brighter skin and zero “regrets.” In fact, the only thing you might regret is not trying this glow-boosting treatment sooner!

Whether you choose to dermaplane or not, always—and we mean always—do what feels right for you and your skincare routine.

With myths debunked and tips in hand, you can embrace dermaplaning with confidence and enjoy the radiant results it offers.